CONTACT US

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

F.A.Q

Got more questions? We’ve got answers! Explore our frequently asked questions below.

Deciding on a major home appliance like a water heater can be a daunting task. After all, there are numerous options. We offer an expansive range of water heaters at Water Heater Pros, from conventional gas and electric tank systems to the latest hybrid and tankless water heaters. We help our clients make the right decision for their hot water needs and budget.

The US Department of Energy uses the Energy Factor rating to rate the energy conversion efficiency of water heaters. It is often abbreviated EF. The higher the number, the more efficient the water heater is. It is a valuable metric for determining the future energy efficiency of a water heater. However, it functions as a theoretical estimate, and the actual EF may vary according to the unique circumstances of each home.

Energy Star is a voluntary program the Environmental Protection Agency established in 1992 that seeks to rate a wide range of residential and commercial equipment according to their energy efficiency to promote awareness about the risks of air pollution. In the water heater industry, appliances must meet minimum standards to qualify for the Energy Star rating, such as greater than 0.62 for gas tank water heaters and 0.82 for whole-home gas tankless water heaters.

Because a traditional tank water heater is pressurized, that pressure can fluctuate and become too high. When that happens, the pressure water needs somewhere to go. Water heaters have pressure-release valves with an overflow pipe that allows them to drain naturally when necessary. Although the pressure release valve is a necessary precaution, this isn’t typically an issue unless it seems as though the water leaking has become excessive. In that case, contact Water Heater Pros to inspect the water heater.

Homeowners can expect a certain amount of operational noise to emit from a water heater. However, a rumbling sound could indicate excessive sediment build-up within the tank that can cause the water temperature to reach scalding temperatures.

Water heaters are often installed with galvanized nipples at the water inlet and outlet points. These components lose their protective lining after a few years of use. Once that happens, the galvanized metal starts to rust, thus leaving a burst of brown water. One way to prevent this is by replacing the anode rod on the water heater.

Also, remember that flushing the water heater tank every couple of months will help remove the hard water build-up that will happen. If the area has extremely hard water, a plumber can attach an automatic flushing system to the tank, which will flush the tank monthly.

It’s a good idea to match the water tank size to a family’s needs. The family will face cool showers if the water tank is too small. One that is too large will run up the utility bills keeping unneeded water hot.

Plumbers typically measure hot water needs by counting the number of bathrooms in a house. However, some factors can skew these standards—a laundry-heavy family with small children or a house with a large bathtub. A couple living in a large house or a large family living in a small house requires adjusting the figures.

General standards are as follows:

  • One bathroom house: 30 to 40 gallons, in either gas or electric.

  • One-and-a-half bath house: 40 gallons

  • Two to three-bathroom house: 50-gallon gas heater or a 66- to 80-gallon electric*

  • Four or more bathrooms, or homes with oversized tubs: 75-gallon gas heater or a 120-gallon electric heater*

*Electric water heaters take longer to heat water than their gas counterparts.

Hard water can shorten the life of a water heater and cost more to heat water. Follow the following tips to help decrease the damage to the hot-water heater.
Hard water build-up issues are differ in gas and electric water heaters. In both, hard water build-up prevents efficient heat transfer from the heating element or flame to the water to be heated. Because of this, it costs more to heat water and significantly decreases the water heater’s life if the hard water build-up is not frequently removed.
Over time, build-up can decrease the holding capacity of the heater. In electric water heaters, scale forms on the heating element first and then flakes off into the tank, building up on the bottom. Once the build-up is deep enough to cover the bottom heating element, conditions are right for the element to overheat and burn out.
Gas water heaters have a flame beneath the water tank. Mineral deposits on the tank’s bottom cause it to overheat. Sudden bubbling causes the mineral deposits to float into the water, making a rumbling or popping noise when the tank is heated.
Although there are a few ways to resolve hard water, the simplest is to install a whole-house water softening system to soften it before water enters the water heater.

An automatic water shut-off is a device attached to the water heater designed to detect water where there should be none. It might detect the water flow in the pipelines or water on the floor. If the sensor detects water, it shuts off the supply to the home to prevent water damage from flooding.

Carbon monoxide gas can kill the home’s occupants or cause a house to blow up. The gas the water heater uses to heat the water will give off fumes that can cause severe long-term health issues, not to mention death.

When servicing or replacing an old gas water heater, respect must be given to the venting. Local regulations may dictate variations from city to city, but safety is primary. Any replacement of an old water heater requires the venting and gas brought up to today’s standards.

The size of the venting has also been an issue that has come to light over the years. If the gas cools down before fully being vented into the outside air, the fumes condense in the chimney and venting system. Condensation in the venting system will cause a white, sandy-like build-up throughout. Another condensation issue is rust, which will occur on older venting materials.

Consider replacing a water heater if it is 6 to 12 years old and when there is limited warm water. Conversely, a 15-year-old water heater may work very well and does not require replacing.

Generally, the rule of thumb is a 40-gallon capacity water heater for up to four individuals, a 50-gallon container for four to six individuals, and a 50-gallon high-efficiency or 75-gallon container for six to eight individuals.

Plumbers recommend flushing a water heater at least once each year. Doing so will aid in avoiding the possible troubles that sediment can bring gradually. If the area’s water is hard, consider flushing the system twice a year or more.

Generally, the rule of thumb is a 40-gallon capacity water heater for up to four individuals, a 50-gallon container for four to six individuals, and a 50-gallon high-efficiency or 75-gallon container for six to eight individuals.

Most water heaters last between 10 to 13 years. Sediment build-up and corrosion can cause the heater to operate inefficiently, and corrosion can cause leaks.

If the tank rusts, it might fail and flood the house. Homeowners can prevent this by replacing the water heater before it stops working. A brand-new water heater might reduce utility expenses, so although a new one is an investment, it will pay for itself in lower utility bills.

Most tankless water heaters last about 20 years. They likewise have quickly changeable components that expand their life by many more years. In contrast, storage space water heaters last 10 to 15 years.

There are several reasons that a water heater can blow up; nonetheless, the main factor is stress. Anything that creates excess stress on a water heating system, such as a worn anode rod or sediment accumulation, can cause the water heater to blow up.